How does segment ring jewelry work?
Segment rings can be tricky to open, especially large gauge segment rings. The segment portion of the ring has little "nubs" that fit into corresponding holes in the ring ends. Segment = male, ring ends = female. Segment rings are actually more difficult to open than captive bead rings because the ring must be opened a bit wider to allow the nubs to come out of the ring ends.
To open a segment ring, use your fingers or ring opening pliers. to gently open the ring just enough for the segment to come free. For larger gauge rings, you probably will not be able to do it without ring opening pliers. We recommend you go to your piercer because they have the tools (so you will not have to purchase them) and they are more experienced at doing it. They may even need to use ring closing pliers to tighten the ring back up a bit. But... the MOST IMPORTANT thing, whether you buy your own tools or have the piercer do it, is to NOT SCRATCH THE RING! Segment rings are more costly than standard bead rings and are quite beautiful. It would be a shame to harm such a ring through carelessness or lack of knowledge. So use ample padding between the ring and the pliers or you will scratch the daylights out of it.
Also, do NOT, under any circumstances, use standard pliers. Use only ring opening pliers.
To put the segment back in, just reverse the process, making sure the segment nubs are seated correctly in the ring ends.
If you plan on changing your segment ring occasionally, you may wish to purchase tools.
If you don't want to purchase tools, but need additional help, your piercer should be able to help you.